Croatia's sexual health infrastructure for gay and bisexual men is heavily Zagreb-centric. The honest truth: the further you are from Zagreb, the harder things get. This article covers what's actually available in each major region, and what that means for you.
The Core Problem: PrEP is Zagreb-Only
Croatia has a single PrEP prescribing centre: UHID (Klinika za infektivne bolesti "Dr. Fran Mihaljević") in Zagreb. If you live in Split, Rijeka, Osijek, or anywhere else in Croatia, you either travel to Zagreb for your PrEP consultations, go private (which means finding a willing infectious disease specialist without a national programme behind them), or go without.
This is a real gap. If you're based outside Zagreb and need PrEP, contact HUHIV (huhiv.hr) — they're aware of this problem and may be able to advise on navigating it in your specific situation.
Split
KBC Split (Clinical Hospital Centre Split) Address: Spinčićeva 1, Split Emergency: 021 556 111
Split's main hospital. For PEP emergencies, go to the Hitni prijem (emergency department) and ask for the infectious disease team. PEP is available 24/7 in emergencies.
STI testing in Split: Split does not have a community testing centre equivalent to CheckPoint Zagreb. Your options:
- HZJZ Split (Croatian Institute of Public Health — Split branch): can provide some STI testing
- Private labs (privatni laboratorij) in Split city centre: offer HIV and STI panels for private payment, typically €50–100 for a full panel
- Dermatovenerology department at KBC Split: can test and treat STIs; requires a GP referral (uputnica) or self-referral with payment
For gay-specific navigation in Split: The LGBTQ+ community in Split is small. Pride Split has been held annually and connects to community networks — reaching them via social media may help you find current referrals to supportive GPs or services.
Dubrovnik note: Dubrovnik is a tourist city with good English-speaking medical facilities for acute care but essentially no gay-specific sexual health services. For STI testing or PrEP, you would need to travel to Split or Zagreb.
Rijeka
KBC Rijeka (Clinical Hospital Centre Rijeka) Address: Krešimirova 42, Rijeka Emergency: 051 658 111
Rijeka's main hospital. PEP available via the Hitni prijem (emergency department). Rijeka has an active LGBTQ+ community and the city has historically been more progressive than many parts of Croatia.
STI testing in Rijeka:
- HZJZ Rijeka branch: some STI testing available
- Private labs in Rijeka city centre: full STI panels available privately
- KBC Rijeka departments: dermatovenerology for STI diagnosis and treatment with referral
Community resources in Rijeka: Rijeka has a more developed LGBTQ+ scene than most Croatian cities outside Zagreb. Local LGBTQ+ organisations may be able to advise on affirming local GPs — check for current contacts via iskorak.hr or social media.
Osijek and Slavonia
KB Osijek (Osijek General Hospital / Klinička bolnica Osijek) Address: J. Huttlera 4, Osijek Emergency: 031 511 511
Eastern Croatia's main hospital. PEP available in emergencies via the Hitni prijem. Slavonia is the most conservative part of Croatia in terms of social attitudes, and LGBTQ+-affirming services are effectively absent outside of informal networks.
STI testing in Osijek: Private labs are the most accessible route. HZJZ Osijek branch provides some services. Assume that navigating the public system in Osijek as an openly gay man may require more discretion than in Zagreb or Rijeka.
For support in Slavonia: Contact Iskorak (iskorak.hr) in Zagreb — they may be aware of any affirming contacts closer to you and can provide remote counselling.
Islands and Coastal Tourism Areas
If you're visiting Croatia's islands (Hvar, Brač, Korčula, Vis, Krk, etc.) during the summer season, understand the following:
Medical facilities on islands are limited. Small island hospitals (bolnica) handle acute emergencies but have no specialist infectious disease capacity. For PEP, you would need to reach the mainland — Split for the southern islands, Rijeka for Kvarner islands.
Ferry connections: The ferry schedule matters. If you need urgent PEP (ideally within 2–4 hours of exposure, maximum 72 hours), factor in travel time from your island to the nearest mainland KBC.
STI testing on islands: Essentially unavailable outside of basic blood tests. Plan testing before or after your visit.
Hvar note: Hvar is a major gay-friendly summer destination. The Stari Grad and Hvar town medical centres can handle acute care but nothing beyond that for sexual health. If you're there for an extended period, get your testing done before you arrive and have travel insurance that covers medical evacuation if needed.
Practical Recommendations if You Live Outside Zagreb
Get on PrEP before you need it urgently. If you're considering PrEP and live outside Zagreb, plan a Zagreb trip for the initial consultation at UHID. Subsequent monitoring may be possible through local infectious disease specialists once you're established on PrEP — ask UHID about this.
Find a local GP who won't make you feel judged. This is the unglamorous work, but having a GP you can be honest with makes everything easier. Ask Iskorak for referrals.
Know your nearest KBC emergency number before you need it. For PEP, every hour counts. Have the number saved.
HUHIV is reachable nationally. CheckPoint Zagreb (huhiv.hr) provides advice and navigation support by phone and online — you don't need to be in Zagreb to contact them.
Emergency Contacts by Region
| City | Hospital | Emergency Number |
|---|---|---|
| Zagreb | UHID / KBC Zagreb | 01 23 26 100 / 01 23 88 888 |
| Split | KBC Split | 021 556 111 |
| Rijeka | KBC Rijeka | 051 658 111 |
| Osijek | KB Osijek | 031 511 511 |
| General | Emergency services | 112 |